Adventure Found Here: Nicaragua, Salt in My Hair, Lava at My Feet

I arrived to Nicaragua, Rivas, in the afternoon after taking a Tica Bus from Liberia, Costa Rica. The journey itself was mostly smooth, except for the departure—the bus was about an hour and a half late. Tica Bus does warn passengers about potential delays on their website, but it’s still worth keeping in mind, especially if you’re planning to catch a connection afterward.

The border crossing between Costa Rica and Nicaragua was relatively straightforward and took approximately two hours in total. The cost came to $25 USD: $10 to exit Costa Rica and $15 to enter Nicaragua.

Rivas: The Starting Point

My journey in Nicaragua began in the small town of Rivas. Located in southwestern Nicaragua, Rivas is often seen as a transit hub, but it offers an authentic glimpse into everyday Nicaraguan life. Surrounded by farms and close to both the Pacific coast and Lake Nicaragua, the city feels local and unpolished. Its central park and bustling markets make it a great place to slow down and observe daily routines.

I ended up spending five quiet nights in Rivas, staying at Murph’s Surf Shacks for just $77 USD in total. From the moment I arrived, it felt like the right choice. The location was convenient, the space was simple but comfortable, and it gave me exactly what I needed at that point in my journey. Life in Rivas moves at an unhurried pace. I fell into a gentle routine—morning gym sessions, afternoons working on and finally launching my travel blog, and evenings wandering through downtown. There isn’t much in terms of big attractions, but that was part of the charm. The town isn’t trying to impress you; it just lets you be. Rivas gave me the space to slow down, relax, and reset. Sitting among locals, watching daily life unfold, I felt like I was getting a glimpse of real Nicaraguan culture—far removed from the tourist crowds. If you’re looking for authenticity rather than highlights, Rivas is worth your time. And as a bonus, it’s the perfect base for exploring the rest of Nicaragua when you’re ready to move on.

Ometepe: An Island Like No Other

Ometepe Island sits in the middle of Lake Nicaragua and is formed by two volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas. Accessible by ferry, the island is known for its rich biodiversity, hiking trails, petroglyphs, and freshwater swimming spots like Ojo de Agua. Life here moves slowly, with small villages focused on farming, fishing, and eco-tourism.

After Rivas, I felt ready for my next stop: Ometepe Island. I mentioned my plan to the owner of Murph’s Surf Shacks, and within minutes he was sharing practical advice—how to get to the port, which ferry to take, and what to expect along the way. He even contacted “his” taxi driver for me, who took me straight from Rivas to the San Jorge port for $5 USD. There is a cheaper option—the local chicken bus—but that day, I chose comfort over adventure. At the port, things were simple and efficient. I paid a small tourist tax of 37 Córdobas, followed by 50 Córdobas for the ferry ticket. Just over an hour later, we were crossing Lake Nicaragua. The ferry ride itself was surprisingly fun—music played in the background, people chatted, and snacks and drinks were available if you wanted them. It felt less like transportation and more like the beginning of an experience.

Once I arrived on Ometepe, I headed straight to my accommodation. I’d been told it’s best to organise activities once you’re on the island rather than booking online—and that advice turned out to be golden. I told my host what I wanted to see and do, and she reached out to a few local agencies on my behalf. By the end of the day, everything was arranged for literally half the price I’d seen online.

The first big goal was hiking Concepción Volcano. Hiking Concepción Volcano (you can read more about it in Chasing Clouds: My Epic Concepción Volcano Hike on Ometepe) was one of the toughest things I did in Nicaragua. The climb is steep, exposed, and relentless, with loose volcanic rock underfoot and very little shade. It’s not a hike to take lightly. Exhausting, humbling, and incredibly powerful—Concepción is the kind of hike that stays with you long after your legs have recovered.Knowing how demanding that hike would be, I planned a full rest day afterward.

I saved my guide Jarel’s WhatsApp number, and we agreed to reconnect once I’d recovered to plan something more relaxed. That’s when I decided on a day trip around the island—and it turned out to be one of the highlights of my time on Ometepe. For just $30 USD, I had the freedom to create my own itinerary and decide how long to stay at each stop. Jarel also shared his own local recommendations, which made the day feel even more special. We started at Punta Jesús María beach, followed by Charco Verde and its butterfly sanctuary (entry was $5 USD). After that, I was most excited about river kayaking. The activity cost $20 USD, and although I initially wanted a single kayak, Jarel recommended a double kayak with the guide—it was easier, more stable, and gave me the chance to take photos and videos along the way. He was absolutely right. The kayaking experience lasted about an hour and a half and was pure magic. We spotted birds, crabs, bats, and turtles, and on the way back, my guide suddenly pointed ahead—there, basking in the sun, was a caiman crocodile. I couldn’t believe my luck. That moment alone made the entire day unforgettable. After kayaking, we hopped back on the motorbike and headed to Ojo de Agua, a natural freshwater pool. Entry costs $10 USD, but you receive a $5 voucher to use on food or drinks inside. It was the perfect place to cool off, and I really enjoyed floating in the clear water after such an active day. Jarel was happy to keep exploring, but by then I was content—and tired. On the way back toward Moyogalpa, we made one final stop at the old, closed airport for a quick photo session with Concepción Volcano looming in the background.

My last day on Ometepe was intentionally quiet. I went for a morning walk, soaked in the calm atmosphere, and started planning the rest of my travels through Nicaragua. I spent five nights on the island (four full days), which felt like exactly the right amount of time—enough to explore, to adventure, and to slow down and truly appreciate everything Ometepe has to offer.

San Juan del Sur: Sunsets and Surf

Once a quiet fishing village, San Juan del Sur has grown into Nicaragua’s most popular beach town. Located on the Pacific coast, it’s famous for surfing, vibrant nightlife, and dramatic sunsets over the bay. Nearby beaches offer great waves and quieter escapes, making it a hub for both adventure and relaxation.

I really fell in love with San Juan del Sur—and not in a subtle way. From the moment I arrived, something about this little surf town felt easy and familiar, like a place I could stay longer than planned without questioning it.

The main reason for coming was a surf camp at Dreamsea. Finally—no more excuses. I was ready to learn how to surf. I arrived two days before the camp started, wanting time to explore, slow down, and settle into the town before the early mornings and salty hair took over my life. If I’m being completely honest, though, there was another reason for arriving early. I’d been craving pho for weeks—weeks—and I knew there was a Vietnamese restaurant in town. That alone felt like a perfectly valid reason to spend two extra nights in San Juan del Sur. Priorities, right? Sadly, it just wasn’t meant to be. I tried going there several times, only to find the place still closed long after it was supposed to open—or to be entirely ignored in an otherwise empty restaurant. After the third attempt, my pho craving officially died. And honestly? I made my peace with it, because San Juan del Sur had so much more to offer.

I loved the town’s laid-back rhythm—the small coffee shops tucked into side streets, the boutiques selling local clothing and handmade pieces, the sound of the ocean never quite leaving your ears. It’s the kind of place where you wander without a plan and somehow always end up exactly where you want to be.

The surf camp itself was incredible. (You can read all about that experience in “Learning to Surf and Finding Christmas Magic at Dreamsea Nicaragua”) Before arriving, I’ll admit I had my doubts. The idea of being “stuck” with a bunch of people for an entire week made me a little nervous. Sometimes you just don’t click—and if you know me well enough, you know I value my own space and I’m not exactly a fan of small talk. But choosing this surf camp turned out to be one of the best decisions I made on the trip. Somehow, everything just worked. The group felt natural, easy, and unforced. Conversations flowed without pressure, silences felt comfortable, and connections formed without trying. I met genuinely wonderful people—people I laughed with, learned from, and shared both waves and quiet moments with. What started as a week of learning how to surf turned into something much more meaningful. I left not only with sore muscles and salt in my hair, but with memories and friendships I know will last far beyond this trip. Sometimes the places we go surprise us—but sometimes, it’s the people who make all the difference.

After a full week at Dreamsea Surf Camp, I decided to stay another three nights to welcome the New Year here. I didn’t do anything wild or particularly festive. Instead, my friend Wilson (whom I met at Dreamsea) and I headed to Playa Hermosa to watch the last sunset of the year. The sky turned soft shades of gold and orange, the waves rolled in steadily, and for a moment everything felt perfectly still. It was exactly the kind of New Year’s Eve I didn’t know I needed.

During my time in San Juan del Sur, I found myself returning to the same place again and again: La Lancha, a beachfront restaurant that quickly became my favourite. I ended up eating there every single day. The staff was warm and welcoming, prices were refreshingly fair, the wine pours were generous, and the seafood never disappointed. If you know me, you know that once I find something I love, I don’t experiment much. My go-to order was a grilled fish fillet with vegetables and rice—simple, fresh, and perfect every time. Though, judging by the dishes passing by my table, you really couldn’t go wrong with anything on the menu.

San Juan del Sur wrapped me up in its slow mornings, salty afternoons, and glowing sunsets. Surf lessons, simple meals, ocean air, and unplanned moments—that’s what made me fall for it. And if you ever find yourself here, I have a feeling you might fall too.

Granada: Wandering Colourful Streets, Foodie Finds and History

Founded in 1524, Granada is one of the oldest colonial cities in the Americas. Its well-preserved architecture, colourful buildings, and proximity to Lake Nicaragua give it a timeless charm. Visitors can explore historic churches, lively markets, and the nearby Islets of Granada, a group of small islands perfect for boat tours.

My next stop was Granada, and while planning the rest of my Nicaraguan adventure, I stumbled upon holaholatours.com, a company offering tours and shuttles at very reasonable prices. At first, I was excited—the website looked great, and everything seemed super easy to organise. Unfortunately, the experience didn’t live up to the expectations. Some activities I booked were supposedly “cancelled,” which later turned out to be untrue, and getting a refund for the deposits I paid was a complete nightmare. So, I wouldn’t recommend using this company—but their website can still be useful as a reference to other local providers. In the end, I reached out directly to local companies and organised tours and shuttles with them myself, which worked out much better.

I arrived in Granada late at night, planning to stay only two nights. I had my heart set on hiking Masaya Volcano, but the minimum booking was for two people—and after an endless search for a partner, I decided to let that plan go. Instead, I gave myself a full day to explore Granada on foot. And honestly? It was perfect. The city is a feast for the senses. Walking through its colourful streets, colonial buildings, and bustling squares, I felt completely immersed in the local vibe. Granada is full of fantastic cafes, street food stalls, and restaurants, making it a paradise for any foodie. I spent hours sampling local dishes, sipping wine, and just soaking in the atmosphere—sometimes the best adventures are the simplest ones.

León: Bold and Unforgettable

León is Nicaragua’s intellectual and revolutionary heart, known for its universities, street art, and political history. The city is home to the largest cathedral in Central America, offering panoramic views from its white rooftop. With nearby volcanoes and a strong cultural identity, León feels intense, expressive, and deeply proud of its past.

My final stop in Nicaragua was León. I arrived early in the morning after a three-hour shuttle from Granada and had a few hours before I could check in, which gave me the perfect excuse to start exploring the town. First things first: breakfast. I found a charming French bakery called Pan y Paz, and wow—what a find. I couldn’t resist the smashed avocado on toast with two eggs, and it did not disappoint. Every dish looked spectacular, and I’d highly recommend this spot to anyone visiting León.

Sand boarding at Cerro Negro

In the afternoon, I had booked a sand boarding adventure at Cerro Negro, one of Nicaragua’s most iconic volcanoes. After a 45-minute ride on the back of a truck, we reached the base. Each of us got a board, a backpack with a onesie, and goggles. You can pay $5 USD to have your board carried uphill, but I decided to tough it out. Carrying the board was tricky—I spent the hike figuring out the most comfortable way to hold it—but the climb itself took about 45 minutes and offered plenty of time to take in the surroundings.

Standing at the top, I hesitated. The slope looked steep, long, and intimidating. Controlling the board relies entirely on your body and heels, and there’s no going back. I quickly donned my onesie and goggles, lined up, and before I could overthink it, I was hurtling down the black sand. The ride was intense, scary, and thrilling—I had to lift my goggles periodically to see, holding the board rope in hand. When I finally reached the bottom, I was covered head to toe in volcanic sand, exhilarated and relieved all at once.

After sand boarding, we enjoyed the sunset before the real adventure began—the party bus. Loud music, liters of rum, and a bonfire stop for marshmallows made the journey back to León unforgettable. The highlight? Arriving in town to find local children dancing in the street to the music. Pure joy. The night ended at Via Via Hostel, but I was ready for bed—I had a two-day hike coming up the next morning.

El Hoyo Hike and Camping Adventure

The El Hoyo hike was a two-day adventure, including camping, with a small group of five people and two guides, Norlan and Angel. The hike was scheduled to start at 9:30 a.m., but “Nica time” meant we didn’t actually begin until 12:30 p.m.—not surprising after nearly four weeks in Nicaragua.

We first drove 45 minutes to the park, had lunch, and then started the trail. The first 30 minutes were the hardest: steep, hot, and carrying backpacks of at least 10 kg. After that, the hike became much more enjoyable. We took our time, soaking in the scenery, and reached the campsite just before sunset. Dinner and a bonfire followed, and though camping is always a little uncomfortable, waking up to the sunrise straight from my tent made it all worthwhile.

The descent the next morning took about three and a half hours. A refreshing swim in the lake at the end rewarded us for the effort, and after a short hike to the car and an hour drive back to León, we said our goodbyes.

Later that afternoon, Angel and I visited the León Cathedral for sunset. Entry was $4 USD, and we spent 20 minutes on the rooftop taking in panoramic views of the city, volcanoes, and surrounding countryside. Afterward, we grabbed dinner and drinks by the cathedral. Some of the couples from the hike joined us, and it was the perfect way to end my time in León.

Both, the Cerro Negro sand boarding as well as the Hoyo hike were organised by Volcano Day company. I highly recommend them. They offer so many different activities for very reasonable prices.

The next morning, I had a shuttle booked to Managua airport, ready to start my next adventure: El Salvador. León had been a mix of adventure, breathtaking scenery, and unexpected fun—a fitting finale to my Nicaraguan journey.

I came to Nicaragua with no expectations, and I have to admit—it completely stole my heart. Every town I visited had its own unique character, its own rhythm, its own charm, and I found myself falling for each of them in different ways. From the laid-back streets of Rivas to the colourful alleys of Granada, the surf vibes of San Juan del Sur, the volcanic adventures on Ometepe, and the adrenaline-filled experiences in León—Nicaragua left an impression I’ll never forget.

This is one of those countries I know I’ll return to. Thank you, Nica, for the waves, the sunsets, the volcanoes, and the unforgettable memories. You’ve got a piece of my heart.