Reach New Heights: Hiking Cerro Chirripó

For those seeking adventure, Cerro Chirripo is Costa Rica’s highest peak at 3,820 meters. The hike is challenging but rewarding, with stunning views over both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts on clear days.

Solo female travellers with good fitness levels will find this an unforgettable experience that pushes limits and connects deeply with nature.

Hiking Cerro Chirripó: A Spontaneous Adventure to Costa Rica’s Highest Peak

Sometimes the best adventures are the ones we don’t plan. My hike up Cerro Chirripó, the highest mountain in Costa Rica, started as nothing more than a casual Google search. I was looking for ideas of what to see and do—and then I discovered something irresistible: from the summit of Chirripó, you can see both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. That was it. I was hooked.

A few clicks later, I realised that permits are required and spots often sell out months in advance. Somehow, there were two last spots left for the dates I needed. I booked immediately, without overthinking it!


Understanding the Reservation Process

If you’ve never booked Chirripó before, the process can feel a bit confusing. Everything begins on the SINAC platform (www.sinac.go.cr), where you check availability for both park entry and base camp accommodation.

Step 1 – Park Entry

You pay for your entry permits on the SINAC website.
Cost: USD 18 per person per day (USD 36 for two days)
You’ll receive a confirmation email shortly after.

Step 2 – Base Camp Accommodation

Once you get that confirmation, you must forward it to the administrators who handle lodging. I confirmed everything via email and paid the remaining balance in person once I arrived.
Cost: USD 60 for accommodation + meal package (“Green Month” deal)

There are three trail options to reach the summit, but the most popular—and the one most hikers take—is the Entrada Principal from San Gerardo de Rivas.


The Day Before the Hike

San Gerardo has two ranger stations. You’ll visit both:

  1. First Ranger Station: Registration + wristband.
  2. Second Ranger Station: Confirm accommodation + final payment.

I happened to visit during “Green Month,” which meant I got a 60% discount on lodging when purchasing a meal package. The package included lunch, dinner, and breakfast, and I could choose my meals before the hike.

To fuel up, I grabbed a meal at a little restaurant next to the ranger station—amazing food at very reasonable prices. This was my pre-hike carb loading session.


Day 1 – The Ascent (15 km to Base Camp)

My alarm went off at 5:30 am. I wanted to start hiking by 6:30, giving myself a good chance of reaching base camp before dark.

Small confession: I initially thought the hike was 10 km, because Costa Rica often uses miles. I didn’t realise it was 15 km until I hit the first kilometre marker and double-checked the photo of the map. No wonder people begin their hike at 3 am!

The terrain is challenging—mud, rocks, dust, repeat. Around km 5, it started raining, and the temperature dropped sharply. Since I was close to the midpoint shelter, I kept going until I got there, shivering by the time I arrived. I changed into dry clothes, bought electrolytes, had few snacks and rested briefly. By that point, I had already been hiking for approximately five hours.

The second half was even harder: you gain 150–200 m of elevation per kilometre. The views were beautiful, but my focus was simply on reaching base camp before sunset. The final stretch was brutal—I had to stop every five steps. I arrived exhausted, barely able to lift my legs, but just in time to grab my late lunch (at 5 pm) and to finally check in.

The base camp consists of shared dorms with bunk beds—simple but perfectly adequate. You can access free Wi-Fi there, and there’s also a small shop where you can buy drinks, snacks, and souvenirs. After such a long and exhausting day of hiking, all I wanted was dinner and a bed. As soon as I finished my meal, I was ready to collapse. The lights go off at 8 pm, but honestly, I was already curled up in my bunk long before then.


Day 2 – Summit + Full Descent

My second day consisted of:

  • 5 km to the summit
  • 5 km back to base camp
  • 15 km all the way down to San Gerardo

I decided to wake up at 3:00 am so I could reach the summit for sunrise. Since I’d never hiked solo in the dark before, I asked the two girls I was sharing a dorm with if I could join them. To my surprise, they said no. It threw me off for a second, but oh well—this was my adventure. I set my alarm for 2:30 am, and by 2:45 I was outside stretching in the cold night air. I started my summit push just before 3:00 am. Headtorch on. Heart racing. Let’s go.

I was the first person to leave the base camp, which meant there was absolutely no one ahead of me. No lights to follow. No sound. Just me, my torch, and the mountain. The night sky was incredible—stars everywhere, lightning flashing in the distant clouds. But the beauty didn’t last long. Within an hour, it started raining. And then my headtorch died.Suddenly, I was alone on a pitch-black mountain with nothing but the flashlight on my phone to guide me. A few times I wasn’t even sure I was going the right way, but I followed my offline map and hoped for the best. I kept telling myself: Even if I don’t make it to Cerro Chirripó, I’ll at least reach somewhere interesting.

The most parts of the hike itself weren’t too technical—what made it challenging was the weather and the total darkness. But the final stretch? That one was brutal. The ground turned into steep, jagged rock, and I had to climb using both hands. That meant no more phone light, so I relied on the faint outline of the trail and pure instinct. Then, at last, I reached the summit. I’ll never forget that moment. I was the first person up there. Completely alone on the highest point in Costa Rica, in the dark silence of early morning. It felt surreal, powerful, and deeply personal.

Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on my side. Strong wind, thick clouds—no sunrise, and definitely no view of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Knowing I still had a 20 km journey ahead of me, I didn’t linger long. Another hiker offered to join me on the way back down to base camp, and it was nice to finally have some company. I grabbed a quick breakfast at the base camp and by 8:30 am, I began the long, knee-breaking descent back to San Gerardo. It was a torture—mainly because of my knee issues and the lack of a knee brace or hiking poles. What should have taken 5–6 hours took me closer to 7. Every step was a reminder that hiking down can be much harder than hiking up.

Still, I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything. It was physically and mentally challenging, but the sense of accomplishment made every struggle worth it.


Top Tips for Hiking Cerro Chirripó

  • Do your research. The booking system isn’t intuitive.
  • Don’t confuse miles with kilometres (trust me).
  • Bring hiking poles, especially if you have knee issues.
  • Pack layers—weather changes fast at high altitude.
  • Stay two nights at base camp if possible.
    There are beautiful side hikes, and you’ll have a better chance of catching a clear sunrise.

Final Thoughts

Hiking Cerro Chirripó was one of the hardest physical challenges I’ve ever done—but also one of the most rewarding. From battling the steep ascent to pushing through the long descent, every moment reminded me of why I love hiking. It tests you, breaks you down, builds you up, and rewards you with experiences you’ll carry forever.

If you’re travelling through Costa Rica and want an adventure you’ll never forget, put Chirripó at the top of your list.

You may also like...

1 Response

  1. Tomas says:

    Beautifully written; you feel like you’re on the journey with you.