{"id":1237,"date":"2026-01-11T01:50:29","date_gmt":"2026-01-11T01:50:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/iwandernisa.com\/dobrodruzstvi-nalezeno-zde-nikaragua-sul-ve-vlasech-lava-u-nohou\/"},"modified":"2026-01-11T02:03:16","modified_gmt":"2026-01-11T02:03:16","slug":"dobrodruzstvi-nalezeno-zde-nikaragua-sul-ve-vlasech-lava-u-nohou","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/iwandernisa.com\/cs\/dobrodruzstvi-nalezeno-zde-nikaragua-sul-ve-vlasech-lava-u-nohou\/","title":{"rendered":"Dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed nalezeno zde: Nikaragua, s\u016fl ve vlasech, l\u00e1va u nohou"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Do Nikaraguy, do m\u011bsta Rivas, jsem dorazila odpoledne pot\u00e9, co jsem se svezla autobusem Tica Bus<\/a> z Liberie v Kostarice. Cesta samotn\u00e1 prob\u011bhla v\u011bt\u0161inou hladce, a\u017e na odjezd \u2013 autobus m\u011bl zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed asi hodinu a p\u016fl. Spole\u010dnost Tica Bus sice upozor\u0148uje cestuj\u00edc\u00ed na mo\u017en\u00e9 zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed na sv\u00fdch webov\u00fdch str\u00e1nk\u00e1ch, ale i tak je dobr\u00e9 to m\u00edt na pam\u011bti, zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b pokud pl\u00e1nujete navazuj\u00edc\u00ed spoje.<\/p>\n\n

P\u0159ekro\u010den\u00ed hranic mezi Kostarikou a Nikaraguou bylo pom\u011brn\u011b jednoduch\u00e9 a trvalo celkem p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b dv\u011b hodiny. Celkov\u00e9 n\u00e1klady \u010dinily 25 USD: 10 USD za opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed Kostariky a 15 USD za vstup do Nikaraguy. <\/p>\n\n

Rivas: V\u00fdchoz\u00ed bod<\/h2>\n\n

Moje cesta po Nikaragui za\u010dala v mal\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b Rivas. Rivas, kter\u00fd se nach\u00e1z\u00ed v jihoz\u00e1padn\u00ed Nikaragui, je \u010dasto vn\u00edm\u00e1n jako dopravn\u00ed uzel, ale nab\u00edz\u00ed autentick\u00fd pohled do ka\u017edodenn\u00edho \u017eivota Nikaraguy. M\u011bsto, obklopen\u00e9 farmami a v bl\u00edzkosti tichomo\u0159sk\u00e9ho pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed i Nikaragujsk\u00e9ho jezera, p\u016fsob\u00ed m\u00edstn\u011b a neok\u00e1zale. D\u00edky sv\u00e9mu centr\u00e1ln\u00edmu parku a ru\u0161n\u00fdm trh\u016fm je skv\u011bl\u00fdm m\u00edstem, kde se m\u016f\u017eete zastavit a pozorovat ka\u017edodenn\u00ed \u017eivot. <\/p>\n\n

Nakonec jsem v Rivasu str\u00e1vila p\u011bt klidn\u00fdch noc\u00ed a bydlela jsem v Murph\u2019s Surf Shacks za celkem pouh\u00fdch 77 USD. Od chv\u00edle, kdy jsem dorazila, jsem m\u011bla pocit, \u017ee to byla spr\u00e1vn\u00e1 volba. Poloha byla v\u00fdhodn\u00e1, prostor byl jednoduch\u00fd, ale pohodln\u00fd, a dalo mi to p\u0159esn\u011b to, co jsem v dan\u00e9 f\u00e1zi sv\u00e9 cesty pot\u0159ebovala. \u017divot v Rivasu plyne poklidn\u00fdm tempem. Dostala jsem se do p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 rutiny \u2013 rann\u00ed cvi\u010den\u00ed v posilovn\u011b, odpoledne pr\u00e1ce na m\u00e9m cestovn\u00edm blogu a jeho kone\u010dn\u00e9 spu\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed a ve\u010dery str\u00e1ven\u00e9 toulkami po centru m\u011bsta. Nen\u00ed tu mnoho velk\u00fdch atrakc\u00ed, ale to bylo sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed kouzla. M\u011bsto se nesna\u017e\u00ed na v\u00e1s zap\u016fsobit, prost\u011b v\u00e1m dovol\u00ed b\u00fdt. Rivas mi dal prostor zpomalit, odpo\u010dinout si a na\u010derpat nov\u00e9 s\u00edly. Kdy\u017e jsem sed\u011bla mezi m\u00edstn\u00edmi a sledovala, jak se odv\u00edj\u00ed ka\u017edodenn\u00ed \u017eivot, m\u011bla jsem pocit, \u017ee nahl\u00ed\u017e\u00edm do skute\u010dn\u00e9 nikaragujsk\u00e9 kultury \u2013 daleko od dav\u016f turist\u016f. Pokud hled\u00e1te sp\u00ed\u0161e autenticitu ne\u017e zaj\u00edmavosti, Rivas stoj\u00ed za v\u00e1\u0161 \u010das. A jako bonus je to ide\u00e1ln\u00ed z\u00e1kladna pro pozn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed zbytku Nikaraguy, a\u017e budete p\u0159ipraveni vyrazit d\u00e1l. <\/p>\n\n

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Ometepe: Ostrov, kter\u00fd se nepodob\u00e1 \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9mu jin\u00e9mu<\/h2>\n\n

Ostrov Ometepe le\u017e\u00ed uprost\u0159ed Nikaragujsk\u00e9ho jezera a tvo\u0159\u00ed ho dv\u011b sopky, Concepci\u00f3n a Maderas. Na ostrov, kter\u00fd je dostupn\u00fd trajektem, se jezd\u00ed kv\u016fli jeho bohat\u00e9 biodiverzit\u011b, turistick\u00fdm stezk\u00e1m, petroglyf\u016fm a sladkovodn\u00edm m\u00edst\u016fm ke koup\u00e1n\u00ed, jako je Ojo de Agua. \u017divot zde plyne pomalu, v mal\u00fdch vesnic\u00edch se lid\u00e9 v\u011bnuj\u00ed zem\u011bd\u011blstv\u00ed, rybolovu a ekoturistice. <\/p>\n\n

Po Rivasu jsem se c\u00edtila p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 na dal\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vku: ostrov Ometepe. Zm\u00ednila jsem sv\u016fj pl\u00e1n majiteli Murph\u2019s Surf Shacks a b\u011bhem n\u011bkolika minut se se mnou d\u011blil o praktick\u00e9 rady \u2013 jak se dostat do p\u0159\u00edstavu, kter\u00fd trajekt si vybrat a co cestou o\u010dek\u00e1vat. Dokonce mi zavolal \u201esv\u00e9ho\u201c taxik\u00e1\u0159e, kter\u00fd m\u011b za 5 USD odvezl p\u0159\u00edmo z Rivasu do p\u0159\u00edstavu San Jorge. Existuje i levn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed varianta \u2013 m\u00edstn\u00ed chicken bus \u2013 ale ten den jsem si vybrala pohodl\u00ed p\u0159ed dobrodru\u017estv\u00edm. V p\u0159\u00edstavu bylo v\u0161e jednoduch\u00e9 a efektivn\u00ed. Zaplatila jsem malou turistickou da\u0148 37 c\u00f3rdob a n\u00e1sledn\u011b 50 c\u00f3rdob za l\u00edstek na trajekt<\/a>. O n\u011bco v\u00edce ne\u017e hodinu pozd\u011bji jsme se plavili p\u0159es Nikaragujsk\u00e9 jezero. J\u00edzda trajektem byla p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b z\u00e1bavn\u00e1 \u2013 v pozad\u00ed hr\u00e1la hudba, lid\u00e9 si pov\u00eddali a pokud jste cht\u011bli, byly k dispozici i sva\u010diny a n\u00e1poje. P\u016fsobilo to sp\u00ed\u0161e jako za\u010d\u00e1tek z\u00e1\u017eitku ne\u017e jako doprava. <\/p>\n\n

Jakmile jsem dorazila na Ometepe, zam\u00ed\u0159ila jsem rovnou do sv\u00e9ho ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed. Bylo mi \u0159e\u010deno, \u017ee je nejlep\u0161\u00ed organizovat aktivity a\u017e na ostrov\u011b, ne\u017e si je rezervovat online \u2013 a tato rada se uk\u00e1zala jako zlat\u00e1. \u0158ekla jsem sv\u00e9mu hostiteli, co chci vid\u011bt a d\u011blat, a on m\u00fdm jm\u00e9nem oslovil n\u011bkolik m\u00edstn\u00edch agentur. Na konci dne bylo v\u0161e za\u0159\u00edzeno doslova za polovi\u010dn\u00ed cenu, ne\u017e jsem vid\u011bla online. <\/p>\n\n

Prvn\u00edm velk\u00fdm c\u00edlem byla t\u00fara na sopku Concepci\u00f3n. V\u00fd\u0161lap na sopku Concepci\u00f3n (v\u00edce si o n\u011bm m\u016f\u017eete p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst v Chasing Clouds: My Epic Concepci\u00f3n Volcano Hike on Ometepe<\/a>) byl jednou z nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00edch v\u011bc\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jsem v Nikaragui podnikla. V\u00fdstup je strm\u00fd, exponovan\u00fd a ne\u00faprosn\u00fd, sypk\u00e1 sope\u010dn\u00e1 hornina pod nohama a velmi m\u00e1lo st\u00ednu. Nen\u00ed to t\u00fara, kterou by se dalo br\u00e1t na lehkou v\u00e1hu. Vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed, pokorn\u00e1 a neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b siln\u00e1 \u2013 Concepci\u00f3n je ten typ t\u00fary, kter\u00e1 s v\u00e1mi z\u016fstane dlouho pot\u00e9, co se va\u0161e nohy zotav\u00ed. V\u011bd\u011bla jsem, jak n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd ten v\u00fd\u0161lap bude, a proto jsem si napl\u00e1novala cel\u00fd den odpo\u010dinku pot\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n

Ulo\u017eila jsem si WhatsApp \u010d\u00edslo sv\u00e9ho pr\u016fvodce Jarela a domluvili jsme se, \u017ee se znovu spoj\u00edme, a\u017e se zotav\u00edm, abychom napl\u00e1novali n\u011bco klidn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho. Tehdy jsem se rozhodla pro celodenn\u00ed v\u00fdlet po ostrov\u011b \u2013 a uk\u00e1zalo se, \u017ee to byl jeden z vrchol\u016f m\u00e9ho pobytu na Ometepe. Za pouh\u00fdch 30 USD jsem m\u011bla svobodu vytvo\u0159it si vlastn\u00ed itiner\u00e1\u0159 a rozhodnout se, jak dlouho se na ka\u017ed\u00e9 zast\u00e1vce zdr\u017e\u00edm. Jarel se tak\u00e9 pod\u011blil o sv\u00e1 vlastn\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed doporu\u010den\u00ed, d\u00edky kter\u00fdm byl den je\u0161t\u011b v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Za\u010dali jsme na pl\u00e1\u017ei Punta Jes\u00fas Mar\u00eda, n\u00e1sledoval Charco Verde a jeho mot\u00fdl\u00ed rezervace (vstupn\u00e9 bylo 5 USD). Pot\u00e9 jsem se nejv\u00edce t\u011b\u0161ila na j\u00edzdu na kajaku po \u0159ece. Tato aktivita st\u00e1la 20 USD, a a\u010dkoli jsem zpo\u010d\u00e1tku cht\u011bla kajak pro jednoho, Jarel mi doporu\u010dil kajak pro dva s pr\u016fvodcem \u2013 bylo to jednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed, stabiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a dala mi mo\u017enost po\u0159izovat fotografie a videa po cest\u011b. M\u011bl naprostou pravdu. J\u00edzda na kajaku trvala asi hodinu a p\u016fl a byla naprosto kouzeln\u00e1. Spat\u0159ili jsme pt\u00e1ky, kraby, netop\u00fdry a \u017eelvy a cestou zp\u011bt m\u016fj pr\u016fvodce najednou uk\u00e1zal dop\u0159edu \u2013 tam, vyh\u0159\u00edvaj\u00edc\u00ed se na slunci, le\u017eel kajman. Nemohla jsem uv\u011b\u0159it sv\u00e9mu \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. U\u017e jen ten okam\u017eik u\u010dinil cel\u00fd den nezapomenuteln\u00fdm. Po j\u00edzd\u011b na kajaku jsme nasko\u010dili zp\u011bt na motorku a zam\u00ed\u0159ili do Ojo de Agua, p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edho sladkovodn\u00edho baz\u00e9nu. Vstupn\u00e9 stoj\u00ed 10 USD, ale obdr\u017e\u00edte voucher v hodnot\u011b 5 USD, kter\u00fd m\u016f\u017eete pou\u017e\u00edt na j\u00eddlo nebo pit\u00ed uvnit\u0159. Bylo to ide\u00e1ln\u00ed m\u00edsto k ochlazen\u00ed a opravdu jsem si u\u017eila plav\u00e1n\u00ed v \u010dist\u00e9 vod\u011b po tak aktivn\u00edm dni. Jarel byl r\u00e1d, \u017ee m\u016f\u017eeme pokra\u010dovat v objevov\u00e1n\u00ed, ale j\u00e1 u\u017e jsem byla spokojen\u00e1 \u2013 a unaven\u00e1. Cestou zp\u011bt sm\u011brem k Moyogalp\u011b jsme ud\u011blali posledn\u00ed zast\u00e1vku u star\u00e9ho, uzav\u0159en\u00e9ho leti\u0161t\u011b, kde jsme si rychle ud\u011blali fotku se sopkou Concepci\u00f3n v pozad\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n

M\u016fj posledn\u00ed den na Ometepe byl z\u00e1m\u011brn\u011b klidn\u00fd. \u0160la jsem na rann\u00ed proch\u00e1zku, nas\u00e1la jsem klidnou atmosf\u00e9ru a za\u010dala jsem pl\u00e1novat zbytek sv\u00fdch cest po Nikaragui. Na ostrov\u011b jsem str\u00e1vila p\u011bt noc\u00ed (\u010dty\u0159i cel\u00e9 dny), co\u017e mi p\u0159ipadalo jako p\u0159esn\u011b ten spr\u00e1vn\u00fd \u010das \u2013 dost na to, abych ho prozkoumala, za\u017eila dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed a zpomalila a skute\u010dn\u011b ocenila v\u0161e, co Ometepe nab\u00edz\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n

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San Juan del Sur: Z\u00e1pady slunce a surfov\u00e1n\u00ed<\/h2>\n\n
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San Juan del Sur, kdysi klidn\u00e1 ryb\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e1 vesnice, se rozrostl v nejobl\u00edben\u011bj\u0161\u00ed pl\u00e1\u017eov\u00e9 m\u011bsto Nikaraguy. Nach\u00e1z\u00ed se na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed Tich\u00e9ho oce\u00e1nu a je zn\u00e1m\u00e9 pro surfov\u00e1n\u00ed, pulzuj\u00edc\u00ed no\u010dn\u00ed \u017eivot a dramatick\u00e9 z\u00e1pady slunce nad z\u00e1livem. Nedalek\u00e9 pl\u00e1\u017ee nab\u00edzej\u00ed skv\u011bl\u00e9 vlny a klidn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b, co\u017e z n\u011bj \u010din\u00ed centrum dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed i relaxace. <\/p>\n\n

Do San Juan del Sur jsem se opravdu zamilovala \u2013 a ne jen tak ledabyle. Od chv\u00edle, kdy jsem dorazila, mi na tomto mal\u00e9m surfa\u0159sk\u00e9m m\u011bste\u010dku p\u0159ipadalo n\u011bco snadn\u00e9 a zn\u00e1m\u00e9, jako m\u00edsto, kde bych mohla z\u016fstat d\u00e9le, ne\u017e jsem pl\u00e1novala, ani\u017e bych o tom pochybovala. <\/p>\n\n

Hlavn\u00edm d\u016fvodem m\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edjezdu byl surfa\u0159sk\u00fd kemp v Dreamsea<\/a>. Kone\u010dn\u011b \u2013 \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdmluvy. Byla jsem p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 nau\u010dit se surfovat. Dorazila jsem dva dny p\u0159ed za\u010d\u00e1tkem kempu, proto\u017ee jsem cht\u011bla m\u00edt \u010das na prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed okol\u00ed, zpomalit a zabydlet se ve m\u011bst\u011b, ne\u017e mi \u010dasn\u00e9 vst\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed a slan\u00e1 voda ve vlasech ovl\u00e1dnou \u017eivot. Ale abych byla \u00fapln\u011b up\u0159\u00edmn\u00e1, byl tu je\u0161t\u011b jeden d\u016fvod, pro\u010d jsem p\u0159ijela d\u0159\u00edv. U\u017e t\u00fddny jsem tou\u017eila po pho \u2013 t\u00fddny<\/em> \u2013 a v\u011bd\u011bla jsem, \u017ee ve m\u011bst\u011b je vietnamsk\u00e1 restaurace. U\u017e jen to mi p\u0159ipadalo jako naprosto p\u00e1dn\u00fd d\u016fvod, pro\u010d str\u00e1vit v San Juan del Sur o dv\u011b noci nav\u00edc. Priority, \u017ee? Bohu\u017eel, nem\u011blo to b\u00fdt. Zkou\u0161ela jsem tam zaj\u00edt n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t, ale poka\u017ed\u00e9 jsem zjistila, \u017ee je zav\u0159eno dlouho pot\u00e9, co m\u011bli otev\u00edrat \u2013 nebo si m\u011b v jinak pr\u00e1zdn\u00e9 restauraci v\u016fbec nev\u0161\u00edmali. Po t\u0159et\u00edm pokusu moje touha po pho ofici\u00e1ln\u011b zem\u0159ela. A up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b? Sm\u00ed\u0159ila jsem se s t\u00edm, proto\u017ee San Juan del Sur m\u011bl co nab\u00eddnout i jin\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n

Zamilovala jsem si uvoln\u011bn\u00fd rytmus m\u011bsta \u2013 mal\u00e9 kav\u00e1rny ukryt\u00e9 v postrann\u00edch uli\u010dk\u00e1ch, butiky prod\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed oble\u010den\u00ed a ru\u010dn\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00e9 kousky, zvuk oce\u00e1nu, kter\u00fd nikdy \u00fapln\u011b neopust\u00ed va\u0161e u\u0161i. Je to m\u00edsto, kde se toul\u00e1te bez pl\u00e1nu a n\u011bjak\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem v\u017edy skon\u010d\u00edte p\u0159esn\u011b tam, kde chcete b\u00fdt. <\/p>\n\n

Surfov\u00fd kemp samotn\u00fd byl neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fd. (O t\u00e9to zku\u0161enosti si m\u016f\u017eete p\u0159e\u010d\u00edst v “U\u010den\u00ed se surfovat a nalezen\u00ed v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho kouzla v Dreamsea Nicaragua”)<\/a> <\/strong>P\u0159ed p\u0159\u00edjezdem p\u0159izn\u00e1v\u00e1m, \u017ee jsem m\u011bla pochybnosti. P\u0159edstava, \u017ee budu cel\u00fd t\u00fdden \u201euv\u011bzn\u011bn\u00e1\u201c s hromadou lid\u00ed, m\u011b trochu znerv\u00f3z\u0148ovala. N\u011bkdy si prost\u011b nesednete \u2013 a pokud m\u011b zn\u00e1te dost dob\u0159e, v\u00edte, \u017ee si cen\u00edm sv\u00e9ho vlastn\u00edho prostoru a nejsem zrovna fanda small talku. Ale v\u00fdb\u011br tohoto surfov\u00e9ho kempu se uk\u00e1zal jako jedno z nejlep\u0161\u00edch rozhodnut\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jsem na cest\u011b ud\u011blala. N\u011bjak\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem v\u0161echno prost\u011b fungovalo. Skupina p\u016fsobila p\u0159irozen\u011b, snadno a nenucen\u011b. Konverzace plynuly bez tlaku, ticho bylo p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 a spojen\u00ed se vytv\u00e1\u0159ela bez snahy. Potkala jsem opravdu \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 lidi \u2013 lidi, se kter\u00fdmi jsem se sm\u00e1la, od kter\u00fdch jsem se u\u010dila a se kter\u00fdmi jsem sd\u00edlela vlny i klidn\u00e9 chv\u00edle. To, co za\u010dalo jako t\u00fdden u\u010den\u00ed se surfovat, se prom\u011bnilo v n\u011bco mnohem smyslupln\u011bj\u0161\u00edho. Neodj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bla jsem jen s bolav\u00fdmi svaly a sol\u00ed ve vlasech, ale se vzpom\u00ednkami a p\u0159\u00e1telstv\u00edmi, o kter\u00fdch v\u00edm, \u017ee vydr\u017e\u00ed mnohem d\u00e9le ne\u017e tato cesta. N\u011bkdy n\u00e1s m\u00edsta, kam jedeme, p\u0159ekvap\u00ed \u2013 ale n\u011bkdy jsou to lid\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed d\u011blaj\u00ed ten rozd\u00edl. <\/p>\n\n

Po cel\u00e9m t\u00fddnu v Dreamsea Surf Camp jsem se rozhodla z\u016fstat dal\u0161\u00ed t\u0159i noci, abych zde p\u0159iv\u00edtala nov\u00fd rok. Ned\u011blala jsem nic divok\u00e9ho ani nijak zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 slavnostn\u00edho. M\u00edsto toho jsme s kamar\u00e1dem Wilsonem (kter\u00e9ho jsem potkala v Dreamsea) zam\u00ed\u0159ili na Playa Hermosa, abychom se pod\u00edvali na posledn\u00ed z\u00e1pad slunce v roce. Obloha se zbarvila do jemn\u00fdch odst\u00edn\u016f zlata a oran\u017eov\u00e9, vlny se valily ustavi\u010dn\u011b a na okam\u017eik se v\u0161echno dokonale zastavilo. Byl to p\u0159esn\u011b ten typ Silvestra, o kter\u00e9m jsem nev\u011bd\u011bla, \u017ee ho pot\u0159ebuji. <\/p>\n\n

B\u011bhem sv\u00e9ho pobytu v San Juan del Sur jsem se neust\u00e1le vracela na stejn\u00e9 m\u00edsto: La Lancha<\/a>, pl\u00e1\u017eov\u00e1 restaurace, kter\u00e1 se rychle stala mou obl\u00edbenou. Nakonec jsem tam jedla ka\u017ed\u00fd den. Person\u00e1l byl v\u0159el\u00fd a vst\u0159\u00edcn\u00fd, ceny byly p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b f\u00e9rov\u00e9, v\u00edno \u0161t\u011bd\u0159e nal\u00e9van\u00e9 a mo\u0159sk\u00e9 plody nikdy nezklamaly. Pokud m\u011b zn\u00e1te, v\u00edte, \u017ee jakmile najdu n\u011bco, co mi chutn\u00e1, moc neexperimentuji. Moje obl\u00edben\u00e1 objedn\u00e1vka byla grilovan\u00e1 ryba se zeleninou a r\u00fd\u017e\u00ed \u2013 jednoduch\u00e9, \u010derstv\u00e9 a poka\u017ed\u00e9 perfektn\u00ed. Ale soud\u011b podle j\u00eddel, kter\u00e1 m\u00edjela m\u016fj st\u016fl, se s ni\u010d\u00edm z menu nem\u016f\u017eete spl\u00e9st.<\/p>\n\n

San Juan del Sur m\u011b zahalil do sv\u00fdch pomal\u00fdch r\u00e1n, slan\u00fdch odpoledn\u00ed a z\u00e1\u0159\u00edc\u00edch z\u00e1pad\u016f slunce. Lekce surfov\u00e1n\u00ed, jednoduch\u00e1 j\u00eddla, oce\u00e1nsk\u00fd vzduch a nepl\u00e1novan\u00e9 okam\u017eiky \u2013 to je to, co m\u011b na n\u011bm okouzlilo. A pokud se sem n\u011bkdy dostanete, m\u00e1m pocit, \u017ee se do n\u011bj mo\u017en\u00e1 zamilujete i vy. <\/p>\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n

Granada: Toulky barevn\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami, gurm\u00e1nsk\u00e9 objevy a historie<\/h2>\n\n

Granada, zalo\u017een\u00e1 v roce 1524, je jedn\u00edm z nejstar\u0161\u00edch koloni\u00e1ln\u00edch m\u011bst v Americe. Jej\u00ed dob\u0159e zachoval\u00e1 architektura, barevn\u00e9 budovy a bl\u00edzkost k Nikaragujsk\u00e9mu jezeru j\u00ed dod\u00e1vaj\u00ed nad\u010dasov\u00e9 kouzlo. N\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci mohou prozkoumat historick\u00e9 kostely, \u017eiv\u00e9 trhy a nedalek\u00e9 Isletas de Granada, skupinu mal\u00fdch ostrov\u016f ide\u00e1ln\u00edch pro v\u00fdlety lod\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n

Mou dal\u0161\u00ed zast\u00e1vkou byla Granada, a kdy\u017e jsem pl\u00e1novala zbytek sv\u00e9ho nikaragujsk\u00e9ho dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed, narazila jsem na holaholatours.com<\/a>, spole\u010dnost nab\u00edzej\u00edc\u00ed v\u00fdlety a transfery za velmi rozumn\u00e9 ceny. Nejprve jsem byla nad\u0161en\u00e1 \u2013 webov\u00e9 str\u00e1nky vypadaly skv\u011ble a v\u0161echno se zd\u00e1lo b\u00fdt velmi snadn\u00e9 zorganizovat. Bohu\u017eel, z\u00e1\u017eitek nenaplnil o\u010dek\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed. N\u011bkter\u00e9 aktivity, kter\u00e9 jsem si objednala, byly \u00fadajn\u011b \u201ezru\u0161eny\u201c, co\u017e se pozd\u011bji uk\u00e1zalo jako nepravda, a z\u00edskat zp\u011bt z\u00e1lohy, kter\u00e9 jsem zaplatila, byla naprost\u00e1 no\u010dn\u00ed m\u016fra. Tak\u017ee bych nedoporu\u010dovala tuto spole\u010dnost pou\u017e\u00edvat \u2013 ale jejich webov\u00e9 str\u00e1nky mohou b\u00fdt u\u017eite\u010dn\u00e9 jako reference pro jin\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed poskytovatele. Nakonec jsem se obr\u00e1tila p\u0159\u00edmo na m\u00edstn\u00ed spole\u010dnosti a zorganizovala si v\u00fdlety a transfery sama s nimi, co\u017e se uk\u00e1zalo jako mnohem lep\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n

Do Granady jsem dorazila pozd\u011b v noci a pl\u00e1novala jsem z\u016fstat jen dv\u011b noci. Moc jsem si p\u0159\u00e1la vyj\u00edt na sopku Masaya, ale minim\u00e1ln\u00ed rezervace byla pro dv\u011b osoby \u2013 a po nekone\u010dn\u00e9m hled\u00e1n\u00ed partnera jsem se rozhodla tento pl\u00e1n vzd\u00e1t. M\u00edsto toho jsem si dala cel\u00fd den na prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed Granady p\u011b\u0161ky. A up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b? Bylo to perfektn\u00ed. M\u011bsto je pastvou pro smysly. P\u0159i proch\u00e1zce jeho barevn\u00fdmi uli\u010dkami, koloni\u00e1ln\u00edmi budovami a ru\u0161n\u00fdmi n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00edmi jsem se c\u00edtila naprosto pono\u0159en\u00e1 do m\u00edstn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ry. Granada je pln\u00e1 fantastick\u00fdch kav\u00e1ren, st\u00e1nk\u016f s pouli\u010dn\u00edm j\u00eddlem a restaurac\u00ed, co\u017e z n\u00ed \u010din\u00ed r\u00e1j pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho gurm\u00e1na. Str\u00e1vila jsem hodiny ochutn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm m\u00edstn\u00edch j\u00eddel, pop\u00edjen\u00edm v\u00edna a jen nas\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm atmosf\u00e9ry \u2013 n\u011bkdy jsou nejlep\u0161\u00ed dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed ta nejjednodu\u0161\u0161\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n

Le\u00f3n: Odv\u00e1\u017en\u00fd a nezapomenuteln\u00fd<\/h2>\n\n

Le\u00f3n je intelektu\u00e1ln\u00ed a revolu\u010dn\u00ed srdce Nikaraguy, zn\u00e1m\u00e9 sv\u00fdmi univerzitami, pouli\u010dn\u00edm um\u011bn\u00edm a politickou histori\u00ed. M\u011bsto je domovem nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed katedr\u00e1ly ve St\u0159edn\u00ed Americe, kter\u00e1 nab\u00edz\u00ed panoramatick\u00fd v\u00fdhled ze sv\u00e9 b\u00edl\u00e9 st\u0159echy. S nedalek\u00fdmi sopkami a silnou kulturn\u00ed identitou p\u016fsob\u00ed Le\u00f3n intenzivn\u011b, expresivn\u011b a hluboce hrd\u00fd na svou minulost. <\/p>\n\n

Mou posledn\u00ed zast\u00e1vkou v Nikaragui byl Le\u00f3n. Dorazila jsem brzy r\u00e1no po t\u0159\u00edhodinov\u00e9 kyvadlov\u00e9 doprav\u011b z Granady a m\u011bla jsem p\u00e1r hodin, ne\u017e jsem se mohla ubytovat, co\u017e mi dalo perfektn\u00ed v\u00fdmluvu, abych za\u010dala prozkoum\u00e1vat m\u011bsto. Nejd\u0159\u00edve to nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed: sn\u00eddan\u011b. Na\u0161la jsem okouzluj\u00edc\u00ed francouzskou pek\u00e1rnu s n\u00e1zvem Pan y Paz<\/a> a wow \u2013 co to byl za n\u00e1lez. Nemohla jsem odolat rozma\u010dkan\u00e9mu avok\u00e1du na toastu se dv\u011bma vejci a nezklamalo m\u011b to. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 j\u00eddlo vypadalo velkolep\u011b a v\u0159ele bych toto m\u00edsto doporu\u010dila ka\u017ed\u00e9mu, kdo Le\u00f3n nav\u0161t\u00edv\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n

Sandboarding na Cerro Negro<\/h3>\n\n

Odpoledne jsem si zarezervovala sandboardingov\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed na Cerro Negro, jedn\u00e9 z nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edch nikaragujsk\u00fdch sopek. Po 45minutov\u00e9 j\u00edzd\u011b na korb\u011b n\u00e1kla\u010f\u00e1ku jsme dorazili na \u00fapat\u00ed. Ka\u017ed\u00fd z n\u00e1s dostal prkno, batoh s kombin\u00e9zou a br\u00fdle. M\u016f\u017eete si zaplatit 5 USD za to, \u017ee v\u00e1m prkno vynesou nahoru, ale j\u00e1 jsem se rozhodla to vydr\u017eet. No\u0161en\u00ed prkna bylo o\u0161emetn\u00e9 \u2013 b\u011bhem v\u00fdstupu jsem p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161lela, jak ho nejpohodln\u011bji dr\u017eet \u2013 ale samotn\u00fd v\u00fdstup trval asi 45 minut a nab\u00eddl spoustu \u010dasu na to, abych se rozhl\u00e9dla po okol\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n

Kdy\u017e jsem st\u00e1la naho\u0159e, zav\u00e1hala jsem. Svah vypadal strm\u00fd, dlouh\u00fd a zastra\u0161uj\u00edc\u00ed. Ovl\u00e1d\u00e1n\u00ed prkna z\u00e1vis\u00ed v\u00fdhradn\u011b na va\u0161em t\u011ble a pat\u00e1ch a nen\u00ed cesty zp\u011bt. Rychle jsem si obl\u00e9kla kombin\u00e9zu a br\u00fdle, postavila se do \u0159ady a ne\u017e jsem se sta\u010dila rozmyslet, \u0159\u00edtila jsem se dol\u016f po \u010dern\u00e9m p\u00edsku. J\u00edzda byla intenzivn\u00ed, d\u011bsiv\u00e1 a vzru\u0161uj\u00edc\u00ed \u2013 musela jsem si pravideln\u011b zvedat br\u00fdle, abych vid\u011bla, a dr\u017eela jsem lano od prkna v ruce. Kdy\u017e jsem kone\u010dn\u011b dorazila dol\u016f, byla jsem od hlavy a\u017e k pat\u011b pokryt\u00e1 sope\u010dn\u00fdm p\u00edskem, rozradostn\u011bn\u00e1 a z\u00e1rove\u0148 s \u00falevou. <\/p>\n\n

Po sandboardingu jsme si u\u017eili z\u00e1pad slunce, ne\u017e za\u010dalo to prav\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed \u2013 party bus. Hlasit\u00e1 hudba, litry rumu a zast\u00e1vka u ohn\u011b na op\u00e9k\u00e1n\u00ed marshmallow u\u010dinily cestu zp\u011bt do Le\u00f3nu nezapomenutelnou. Vrchol? P\u0159\u00edjezd do m\u011bsta, kde m\u00edstn\u00ed d\u011bti tan\u010dily v ulic\u00edch na hudbu. \u010cist\u00e1 radost. Noc skon\u010dila v hostelu Via Via, ale j\u00e1 u\u017e jsem byla p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 j\u00edt sp\u00e1t \u2013 r\u00e1no m\u011b \u010dekala dvoudenn\u00ed t\u00fara. <\/p>\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n

El Hoyo Hike and Camping Adventure<\/h3>\n\n

V\u00fd\u0161lap na El Hoyo bylo dvoudenn\u00ed dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed, v\u010detn\u011b kempov\u00e1n\u00ed, s malou skupinou p\u011bti lid\u00ed a dv\u011bma pr\u016fvodci, Norlanem a Angelem. V\u00fd\u0161lap m\u011bl za\u010d\u00edt v 9:30, ale \u201eNica time\u201c znamenalo, \u017ee jsme ve skute\u010dnosti za\u010dali a\u017e ve 12:30 \u2013 co\u017e nen\u00ed p\u0159ekvapiv\u00e9 po t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 \u010dty\u0159ech t\u00fddnech v Nikaragui. <\/p>\n\n

Nejprve jsme 45 minut jeli do parku, dali si ob\u011bd a pak vyrazili na stezku. Prvn\u00edch 30 minut bylo nejt\u011b\u017e\u0161\u00edch: strm\u00e9, hork\u00e9 a s batohy o hmotnosti nejm\u00e9n\u011b 10 kg. Pot\u00e9 se v\u00fd\u0161lap stal mnohem p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm. Dali jsme si na \u010das, nas\u00e1vali scen\u00e9rii a do kempu jsme dorazili t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed z\u00e1padem slunce. N\u00e1sledovala ve\u010de\u0159e a t\u00e1bor\u00e1k, a i kdy\u017e je kempov\u00e1n\u00ed v\u017edy trochu nepohodln\u00e9, probuzen\u00ed se do v\u00fdchodu slunce p\u0159\u00edmo z m\u00e9ho stanu to v\u0161echno vynahradilo. <\/p>\n\n

Sestup n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho r\u00e1na trval asi t\u0159i a p\u016fl hodiny. Osv\u011b\u017euj\u00edc\u00ed koup\u00e1n\u00ed v jeze\u0159e na konci n\u00e1s odm\u011bnilo za n\u00e1mahu a po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9m v\u00fd\u0161lapu k autu a hodinov\u00e9 j\u00edzd\u011b zp\u011bt do Le\u00f3nu jsme se rozlou\u010dili. <\/p>\n\n

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Pozd\u011bji odpoledne jsme s Angelem nav\u0161t\u00edvili katedr\u00e1lu v Le\u00f3nu p\u0159i z\u00e1padu slunce. Vstupn\u00e9 bylo 4 USD a str\u00e1vili jsme 20 minut na st\u0159e\u0161e a kochali se panoramatick\u00fdm v\u00fdhledem na m\u011bsto, sopky a okoln\u00ed krajinu. Pot\u00e9 jsme si dali ve\u010de\u0159i a drinky u katedr\u00e1ly. P\u0159ipojilo se k n\u00e1m n\u011bkolik p\u00e1r\u016f z v\u00fd\u0161lapu a byl to perfektn\u00ed zp\u016fsob, jak zakon\u010dit m\u016fj \u010das v Le\u00f3nu. <\/p>\n\n

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\"img_5664.webp\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"img_5638.webp\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Jak sandboarding na Cerro Negro, tak i v\u00fd\u0161lap na Hoyo byly zorganizov\u00e1ny spole\u010dnost\u00ed Volcano Day<\/a>. V\u0159ele je doporu\u010duji. Nab\u00edzej\u00ed tolik r\u016fzn\u00fdch aktivit za velmi rozumn\u00e9 ceny. <\/p>\n\n

N\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00edho r\u00e1na jsem m\u011bla zamluven\u00fd transfer na leti\u0161t\u011b v Manague, p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 za\u010d\u00edt sv\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed: El Salvador. Le\u00f3n byl mixem dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed, dechberouc\u00ed scen\u00e9rie a ne\u010dekan\u00e9 z\u00e1bavy \u2013 vhodn\u00fd z\u00e1v\u011br m\u00e9 nikaragujsk\u00e9 cesty. <\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

Do Nikaraguy jsem p\u0159ijela bez o\u010dek\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed a mus\u00edm p\u0159iznat \u2013 \u00fapln\u011b mi ukradla srdce. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 jsem nav\u0161t\u00edvila, m\u011blo sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed jedine\u010dn\u00fd charakter, sv\u016fj vlastn\u00ed rytmus, sv\u00e9 vlastn\u00ed kouzlo a j\u00e1 jsem se do ka\u017ed\u00e9ho z nich zamilovala jin\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem. Od poklidn\u00fdch ulic Rivas po barevn\u00e9 uli\u010dky Granady, surfa\u0159skou atmosf\u00e9ru San Juan del Sur, sope\u010dn\u00e9 dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed na Ometepe a adrenalinov\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitky v Le\u00f3nu \u2013 Nikaragua ve mn\u011b zanechala dojem, na kter\u00fd nikdy nezapomenu. <\/p>\n\n

Je to jedna z t\u011bch zem\u00ed, kam se v\u00edm, \u017ee se vr\u00e1t\u00edm. D\u011bkuji, Nica, za vlny, z\u00e1pady slunce, sopky a nezapomenuteln\u00e9 vzpom\u00ednky. M\u00e1\u0161 kousek m\u00e9ho srdce. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Do Nikaraguy, do m\u011bsta Rivas, jsem dorazila odpoledne pot\u00e9, co jsem se svezla autobusem Tica Bus z Liberie v Kostarice. 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