Skip Belize City—Here’s Where the Real Magic Is

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I only had 5 days and 4 nights in Belize, squeezed in between Guatemala and my flight to Mexico. It wasn’t much time—and yes, it felt rushed—but even so, I’m really glad I made it happen. If you’re planning your own trip, I’d recommend giving yourself 7–10 days. That way you can slow down, explore properly, and really soak in the Caribbean vibe that Belize is known for.

From Flores to Belize

Getting to Belize from Flores in Guatemala was easier than expected. The shuttle ride took around six hours, including the border crossing. Immigration was fairly smooth—just a short wait and a bit of back and forth.

The only downside? Carrying all our bags across the border on foot, which felt unnecessary considering they weren’t even scanned. But on the bright side, there were no exit or entry fees, which made the whole process feel pretty straightforward.

Belize City – Not Quite What I Expected

Belize City is the main entry point into the country, with the international airport and ferry terminal to the islands.

  • Best for: Transit only
  • Vibe: Busy, local, not very tourist-friendly
  • Stay time: A few hours or one night max
  • Highlights: Ferry port, access to islands

Most travellers pass through quickly. While it has some history, there’s very little to do compared to the islands, and many visitors choose to head straight to the coast.

My first stop was Belize City. Since I arrived around midday, I booked two nights here… and honestly, I wish I hadn’t. The moment I stepped off the shuttle, something didn’t feel right. For the first time in six months of travelling, I felt uneasy. The streets were quiet, many shops were closed, and there were groups of people hanging around, shouting and making uncomfortable comments. Maybe I ended up in the wrong area—but overall, I didn’t find much to see or do. I spent most of my time at my accommodation, waiting to leave.

If I could do it again, I’d skip Belize City completely and go straight to the islands.

Caye Caulker – Where Everything Changed

Caye Caulker is a small, laid-back Caribbean island known for its relaxed atmosphere and “Go Slow” motto.

  • Best for: Backpackers, chill vibes, social atmosphere
  • Vibe: Colourful, relaxed, friendly
  • Stay time: 2–4 days
  • Highlights: The Split, beach bars, snorkelling tours

There are no cars here—just sandy streets, golf carts, and bikes. It’s the kind of place where plans don’t matter and days are spent swimming, eating, and watching sunsets.

After two days, I hopped on a ferry to Caye Caulker —and instantly, everything changed. I booked my ferry in advance through Direct Ferries, but honestly, I wouldn’t recommend doing the same. After completing the reservation, I quickly realised you need to have your tickets printed—and that’s where the hassle begins. In reality, there’s no need to overthink it. You’re much better off just showing up at the ferry terminal and buying your ticket on the spot. It’s completely stress-free, and from what I saw, everyone still gets on without any issues. Sometimes the simplest option really is the best one. The ride takes about 45 minutes, but it feels like you’re entering a completely different world. Bright colours, sandy streets, turquoise water, palm trees, reggae music in the background… it’s exactly what you imagine when you think of the Caribbean. I felt safe straight away, and my whole mood lifted the second I arrived.

I spent the day wandering around the island, stopping at little cafés and beach bars. I had my heart set on trying lobster at the famous Happy Lobster, only to find out it wasn’t lobster season (March). Instead, I ordered a chicken and cheese quesadilla—which ended up being one of the best I’ve had on this trip. If you’re looking for a social scene, head to The Split—it’s the go-to spot for drinks, music, and meeting other travellers.

San Pedro – A Slower Pace

San Pedro is a larger, more developed island with plenty of restaurants, hotels, and tour options.

  • Best for: A mix of relaxation and activities
  • Vibe: Lively but less backpacker-focused
  • Stay time: 2–3 days
  • Highlights: Snorkelling, diving, beach clubs, sunrise views

San Pedro offers a bit more comfort and structure compared to Caye Caulker, making it a great option if you want both island vibes and convenience.

My final stop was San Pedro. Compared to Caye Caulker, it felt a bit more laid-back and less colourful—but still charming in its own way. I arrived late in the afternoon, so I kept things simple and just enjoyed the sunset. I had planned to book a catamaran sunset cruise, but unfortunately, none of the tours were running due to low demand. The next morning made up for it. I woke up early, went for a quiet walk, and watched the sunrise—one of those peaceful travel moments that stays with you.

One of the main reasons I came to Belize was for the snorkelling—and it did not disappoint. I booked a full-day snorkelling tour through GetYourGuide, and it ended up being one of the best experiences I’ve had in Central America. Crystal-clear water, vibrant marine life, and multiple stops that each felt completely different. (Read more about this adventure here https://iwandernisa.com/saltwater-dreams-a-day-of-sharks-rays-island-life/.)

It was the kind of day that reminds you exactly why you travel.

Return to Guatemala

To get back, I booked my return through the Bookaway app—the only option I could find that offered a “direct” connection to Guatemala City. The ticket cost $72 USD, which felt reasonable… at first. The day before departure, I received multiple tickets via WhatsApp, and it quickly became clear that “direct” didn’t quite mean what I expected. I had to change buses in Flores, turning the journey into more of a relay than a straight ride. What was meant to be a 19-hour trip stretched into 21 hours—but to be fair, the coach buses were surprisingly comfortable, which made a big difference. Just remember that there is an exit fee ($20 USD).

And in true travel fashion, there was a silver lining. While waiting at the port in Belize City, I ran into Alex—someone I had met earlier in Tikal. Completely unexpected, but it made the long journey so much more enjoyable. Sometimes it’s the people you randomly cross paths with that turn the most exhausting travel days into memorable ones.

Final Thoughts

Belize might not have been part of my original plan, and my time there was short—but it still left a lasting impression. The islands were everything I had hoped for, and even though the trip felt rushed at times, I’m really glad I experienced it. Looking back, Belize gave me a perfect mix of contrast—discomfort, beauty, spontaneity, and unforgettable experiences. And despite the long journey that followed, I’d do it all over again in a heartbeat.

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